Climb 21 - Tuesday Oct 14 - The Egg

It has been cold lately.  So cold that one would think winter was right around the corner.  This assumption, however, would be quickly debunked if you were to go outside this afternoon.  It was sunny and the weather was warm.  I suppose I can wait a little longer for winter... but not much longer.  I had an InDesign class at SLCC this afternoon (as paid for by my office).  This allowed me to be home at an hour more condusive to climbing.  Carvel and I went up Little Cottonwood Canyon to climb the Egg.  I had never climbed there and it had been some time since Carvel had.  There was a nice new trail to follow, but we missed it on the way up.  We followed some old directions and they took us through some interesting terrain.  We eventually made it to where all we had to do was scramble across the rock face to get to the base of the climb.  Why is it that this part is always the scariest to me?  Ugh.  It took me a while, but I made it.  Then Carvel lead the climb.  It was a long one which he lead with two ropes.  He got a little off route on the way up giving us a taste of all the climbs on the Egg.  When he eventually made it to the top I then got things together and followed.  I had no issues in the cracks, but as soon as I got out on the face I just got a little sketched out.  It turns out that face climbing with small holds is not my gig.  I like face climbing with big holds (even if it is overhanging) or crack climbing.  I did make it and then it was time to descend.  It took us a while as there was some problem solving involved in this task.  This is one of the things I like about trad climbing - I like the thinking aspect of it all.  We hiked back down by headlamp and made it to the car around 7:45.  Remember when it didn't get dark until 9:30?  This is only another sign of the impending winter.  I had a good time this afternoon.  I apologize for the lack of photos.  It is just hard to do when there are only two of you.  I plan to take a lot more photos this winter so get excited.  There should be some good ones as I have been learning more and more about photography and how to use my camera.  Until then, On Rock.

Just A Side Note About Bicycle Commuting - Tuesday Oct 14

As of June 2008, I have commuted some distance to work.  This has taken some getting used to.  First, I carpooled with several others from work which meant I only had to drive in once a week.  Then my office got us all train passes.  I have taken the train ever since.  It has been nice.  On ideal days, Stacy drops me at the train station in the morning and picks me up in the evening.  This works out to be a 10 hour day for her and she gets a day off work per week because of it.  Recently, however, due to scheduling difficulties, I have been driving myself to the train station.  Until last week, I had been carrying my road/tri bike with me every day to ride from the train to my office.  This was just more hassle than it was worth - I mean, putting my bike on the car in the morning, then taking it off, then dealing with it on the train (they don't have the best bike racks on there), ... etc, etc, you get the picture.  So two weekends ago I picked up an old bike from my in-laws, fixed it up with fenders, slimed tires, etc. and I have been leaving it at the Clearfield train station locked up.  This has been working out beautifully... until today.  I got off the train this morning all bundled up due to the cold weather we are currently experiencing.  I unlocked my bike and began my ride.  The route includes a small section of gravel.  I was half-way through it when my front tire locked up and I went end-over-end onto the ground below.  I am not the type that gets angry and frustrated over these things (after all, I probably can't count how many times I endoed while on my mission), so I laughed about it and tried to get back on the bike.  This is when I found out that my front fender had been sucked up into the wheel well of the bike.  I spent a few minutes to try to free the different components so I could continue my ride to work, but to no avail.  I then had to carry my bike (or at least the front half since it wouldn't move) and I started walking.  Again, this was not a big deal since I was in no huge hurry.  Soon after I reached the main road, I was picked up by two people I work with and we drove the rest of the way in.  With the help of some tools, I was then able to free my wheel and take care of the bike.  I sent the fender company an email this morning and they were very kind in offering to relace it immediately (not to mention how fast they were with the email response!).  I have discovered that bicycle commuting is not always going to be as smooth as I would like it to be.  There are factors that make it a little more unpredictable - weather, drivers, bike parts, etc.  However, this in no way makes me want to discontinue doing it.  I like it.  I like getting my legs going in the morning and in the afternoon.  I look forward to when this can be done by skiing, but until then (and even after then) a short bicycle commute will continue to do me good.  On Ride.

Climb 20 - Wednesday Oct. 8 - Wait, Shouldn't I Be Skiing Right Now?

As mentioned in the last post, I really wanted to get back up to Sport Utility Wall and knock off that 10a.  Jer and I met after work to do just that.  He was running a little late so we met up there.  I was waiting for him up at the climb as I tried to explain the approach to him over the phone.  Due to either my bad directions or the ambiguity of the turn area from the gully which he climbed up, he got a little lost during the hike and we lost some time.  No big deal, we still had time to both get up this rock before total darkness.  We quickly got our stuff together and I began leading the climb.  The first section is a little tricky, but I had done it before so I knew where the big holds were.  There are plenty of big holds on this climb, you just have to know where they are and maybe reach a little for them.  I got past the first few bolts with ease.  This was feeling good.  Then I came to the first of the two tricky sections.  It took me a minute to remember the move, but I did and it was easier than I thought.  There was one more move keeping me from the top and a true redpoint.  I had plenty of strength left and I just powered through it.  I was stoked to do it.  I just haven't climbed regularly this year and much of it has been with beginners - therefore, at easier areas.  I am not sure how many more times I will get out climbing this year.  Snow fell last weekend and will be falling again this weekend.  It was this day last year that I got my first ski day in.  I am super stoked for the ski season.  If we get any more snow before next weekend I may just have to go walk around and try to make a few turns on Saturday.  We will see.  On Rock.

Climb 19 - Tuesday Sept. 23 - Scouts v3.0

It is the last week of the month and it is time I came up with something to do with just my scouts on our own.  On Sunday we briefly talked about going climbing, but I had not done any follow up.  When I got home from work I texted the boys and found that they were both still into the idea.  We quickly got our stuff together and headed up to Sport Utility Wall.  Time is short nowadays since the sun goes down so early, but I figured we had time for one route each.  When we arrived I was surprised to see some others up there.  There were on the 5.10a, but this wasn't a problem since we wanted to get on the 5.9.  The problem was that they wanted to get on the 5.10c by leading the 5.8 which shares most of the bolts with the 5.9.  The 10c is a completely different climb, but the 5.8 and 5.9 are the same except for the top section.  The 5.9 goes straight whereas the 5.8 heads right to the 10c chains.  So we waited for them to lead that and set up their toprope.  The dudes were nice, but they certainly didn't see the need to hurry as much as I did.  As soon as they were done, I quickly lead the 5.9 and set up our toprope for the boys.  Will followed and climbed it pretty smoothly.  I figure anyone who is athletic can climb 5.9.  He did fall once, but I think that was primarily due to him sticking his hand in a pile of some sort of animal droppings half way up the climb.  Tony climbed last and he seems to be into it.  That's cool.  I wish I had started climbing at a younger age.  I would be a lot further than I am now.  We were able to get down clean up and hike back to the car before the sun went down.  Although it was short, it was a successful evening.  I am hoping to get back up there soon so I can redpoint that 10a before the season is over.  I mean, let's be serious here, I probably won't get any climbing done once the ski season starts.  On Rock.