Day 9 - Monday May 28 - In Memory of Climbing

Let me just begin by saying that I had a wonderful memorial day holiday. I picked up Mike Schultz around 9:30 and we made our way up to the Slips in Big Cottonwood Canyon. CJ and James met us up there and we moved past the dude in his circa 1990's style climbing lycra to get to our climb. We began by climbing a 5.10c as a "warm-up." This proved to be a bit challenging for me, but with a rest here and there I was able to do it. We then went over to Goodrow's Wall in Storm Mountain. There was a group of people just leaving Six Appeal when we got there and the two dudes on Goodrow's Crack were still going to be a while so I led six appeal (a 5.6). This was an interesting climb because there is not much to really hold on to - you really have to just rely on your feet and your balance. As I was coming down, Matt, a co-worker of Mike's from BD, joined us. He then climbed this one and we both watched later as Mike took his turn. At just about this time CJ and James again met up with us (they had been off climbing some 5.9 around the corner) and the dudes on the crack were finishing up. CJ climbed Six Appeal so he could take pictures of Mike leading Goodrow's. Mike led Goodrow's with ease. I then climbed it and I found it necessary to sit on the rope occasionally due to the lack of strength in my arms at this point of the day. I did make it and enjoyed it immensely. Matt then climbed it and then Mike, Matt, and I headed home. We chatted over Barbacoa for lunch and then went our separate ways. If this wasn't already a great day, I was then able to go biking, swimming, biking with Stacy and Ryan and then watch Pan's Labyrinth at home (if you haven't seen it yet, you must! I loved it). This memorial day will remain in my memory for some time.

Day 8 - Saturday May 19 - A Royall Morning

I climbed Parley's canyon this morning with the Royall boys - yes, all of them - Cam, Blake, and Brock. Blake and I first climbed a 5.9 further East on the crag, while Brock and Cam climbed the 5.9+ on the Western end that has the roof at the top. We then traded places and all were edified one with another. Time was running short for us so I then led the really long 5.8 that we climb out of so we don't have to do the crappy hike. This was enjoyable. Some of the bolts, however, are out in the middle of the face and don't make it terribly easy to clip into. I conquered, nonetheless, and then I belayed Brock from the top as he cleaned the gear. Blake and Cam didn't want to take the time to climb it individually so they just hiked up (suckers). It was a nice morning and I look forward to doing this again some time soon.

Day 7 - Wednesday May 16 - A Royall Evening

I headed up Fergusen Canyon this evening after work with Blake Royall. He had never been up there before so we decided it would be fun to give Extreme Unction a shot (as you will probably see over the course of the summer - I have a few fail safe places I climb just like I do with skiing). Brock (he is Blake's brother) met us up there a little later with a couple young girls he brought with him. As is expected on a first attempt up Unction, Blake struggled a bit with some of the more technical moves. I have also noticed that as people do this they tend to totally wipe themselves out and have a hard time at the crux because they have little strength left. In order to give Blake a rest, I then ascended the route. I got a little tired from several attempts of the bump move at the roof and had a hard time finishing, but I did make it. We ran into a couple people Brock knew up there and we let them take a stab at the climb. Brock then ascended the climb and did so with ease. As it was getting dark we gave the girls he brought a shot. Brock belayed and basically just pulled them up the rock. Hey, I am sure they feel good about their "rock climbing" experience.

Day 6 - Monday May 14 - Family Night

With Stacy out of town it was easy to make the decision to climb when Mike Schultz called me after work this evening. I wanted to recreate in some way tonight, and I was leaning toward going for a good ol' fashioned bike ride, but then I got the call from Mike to join him. We went up Little Cottonwood Canyon to Crescent Crack. This is a three pitch 5.7. This was by far the highest I have ever climbed off the ground. We were at least 80 meters above where we started (I say meters because I am obtaining this information from the length of the rope we were using). This would put us nearly 300 ft. up! It was a fun climb. Mike wanted me to trad lead the second pitch, but I was hesitant so he just went ahead and linked the first and second pitches together. The third pitch starts with a 5.7 off width where the crack is too big to really crack climb, yet too small to chimney climb. Basically I ended up jamming my body into this awkwardly sized crack and wiggling my way upward. It was rather enjoyable. I did get spooked a couple of times when I would see how far we had gone, but I would simply put that thought to the side and continue onward. You never know, I may just become a decent climber some day.

Day 5 - Friday May 11 - The Slips

Jer and I went up Big Cottonwood Canyon this morning for some good ol' fashioned climbing. We headed up to the Salt Lake Slips to do some basic lead climbing. This proved to be quite enjoyable. In order to get to the climb you must first cross the river (or hike clear around). Lucky for us, there was a rope strung across that allowed us to do so with ease - except for the extreme cold of the water. We got to our destination and began climbing. Jer led first on the 5.7 in the middle. The is an interesting climb because there are a couple of sections that are just plain weird and can be difficult to climb. As he was thus engaged in leading, a dude from the forest service showed up and told me that we were not supposed to cross at the river and there was a nice hike if you go all the way around. He then went and took down the rope and went on his way. Thanks a lot, dude. He left, Jer finished the climb, and I followed, cleaned up the gear, and rappelled down. I then led a 5.6 on the corner of the wall. It is a fun climb, and a good one to boost your confidence for leading climbs goes. As many of you know, I am still afraid of heights. There was one point where I was struggling to find the next hold and I looked down to Jer to see what he had to say about it. Just then I happened to notice that I was a good distance above my last bolt and had a couple more moves until the next. I convinced myself to forget this new information and was able to continue on without trouble. I finished the climb. Jer followed and rappelled down. It was an enjoyable morning; nothing difficult or technical, but enjoyable nonetheless (except for the other climbers that were right next to us and smoking).

Day 4 - Wednesday May 9 - We Meet Again

David Bowie, Samwise Gamgee, and I picked up Jer around 7:15 this morning for some climbing. For those of you who don't know, Samwise is the new addition to my family. He is a black lab of about 4 months that we got from a Bear Lake shelter at the super adoption thing at Petsmart this past weekend. Samwise Gamgee, from the Lord of the Rings, is his namesake. I figured this was a great name since Sam is know in literature and film to be one of the most loyal characters ever. It just seemed to fit. Anyway, I digress. We picked up Jer and headed up Fergusen canyon to attempt to tackle Extreme Unction for the first time this year. This is a 5.10a that Jer and I spent all summer last year trying to do, but were only successful once at the very end of the year. It has an upside down staircase type thing at the beginning (which Jer has been known to have issues with), then it gets super easy in the middle, then there is a wicked overhang/roof at the top. The roof is where I have had problems in the past. It took a day out last year with Dave Whittaker to actually see how it is done. Well, we did it. There was a little bit of relying on the rope in one particular section, but for the most part we conquered it. We will have to head back up there again once we are a little more in shape to be able to say we have truly conquered it without any outside help. Bowie and Samwise had a great time. As we were finishing on Extreme Unction there was a couple that showed up. My dogs seemed to bug them proficiently so we made our way a little further up the canyon. We wanted to find Cathedral Wall with some sport 5.9's and 5.8's. After a good amount of searching, we did find them, but by then it was time to start heading home. It was a beautiful morning and a great day out with the dogs... oh, yeah, and Jer.

Day 55 - Friday May 4 - On Our Way

We have decided that it is a goal of ours to ski in every month of the year. Yes, you heard me - every single month of the year. This marks May off the list. But don't get me wrong, today was actually quite nice. CJ and I headed up to Alta around 11:00 or so (dawn patrols just aren't worth it this time of year). He had to pick something up at Black Diamond first, but we did make it up there eventually. Since Alta is closed, we just skinned right up and made a few laps around the top. I was really only feeling two laps, but I had made a promise - so I made a third lap just in the name of Cody (he claims he is injured). The skiing was pretty good. Not the best ever, but pretty good. We had a storm come in this week and there was plenty of new snow to ski on. My camera died during this trip so I apologize for the lack of photos. I will definitely be charging the batteries before my next outing. Here it is, May. You thought it was time for strictly climbing blog posts and the occasional triathlon competition, but no! We are determined to accomplish our goal. We will ski every month of this year. Just you try and stop me!

Blog Name Contest

I am in the market for a new name for this wonderful blog. Until recently it has been called "Winter 06-07," but as you may know, winter is over and the blog shall continue! It has been temporarily renamed "Dustin Butcher" because I want to hear some truly original ideas for a new name here. Let me know what you think. Leave a comment on this post with your idea. The author of the name I decide to choose will receive a very special prize later to be determined (most likely some cookies from my wife - but keep in mind that they are damn good cookies). Good Luck!

Day 3 - Tuesday May 1 - And So It Begins...

In the past I have not been a big fan of spring or fall. What I like to do happens to occur in summer and winter (i.e. skiing and climbing - or volleyball, baseball, etc in the past). I have just seen spring and fall as an unnecessary waste of time before I can really start getting into the next sport. This spring has been a little different. With all the training I have been doing in order to get in shape for some Triathlons I have not even noticed that it has quickly jumped to summer!!! Today, in my mind, marks the first day of summer. CJ picked me up at 6:30 and we went up Little Cottonwood to do some climbing (I called it day three because of the 2 days over New Year's in St. George - I figured Jan. 1 would be an easy way to separate the year). After some approach bouldering we reached our destination - the name of the climb is Perhaps. This was one of the few crack climbs I have done, my first time cleaning trad gear, my first multi-pitch climb (2), and my first time not being able to get a cam out and having to have some stranger get it for me. It was a good time. I love the adventure of climbing outside. I have enjoyed climbing indoors at the Front, but there is just something about being outside that really makes me want to get back out there soon. I left my jacket at the bottom with a Clif Bar in the pocket only to find when I got back down that a critter of some sort (a squirrel is the prime suspect) had chewed through the inside of my pocket and eaten the entire Clif Bar. Luckily, he chewed the inside of the jacket and it will be easily repaired, but seriously, Mr. Critter, I wanted that Clif Bar! I hope we meet again, Mr. Critter. Just beware that next time I won't be so kind.